This HTPLA uses Ingeo's tried and true 3D850 PLA, adored by casual and professional makers alike. I hope I've done a good job giving it a little bit of a boost in printing behavior and strength and I do have people who say that it works very well for them as a general 'Pro' PLA with the added option of being suitable for high temperature applications.
Printing temperature ranges from 200C - 225C depending on your printer and how fast you are trying to push plastic out of your nozzle. Personally I'd start at 210C if you're throwing it alongside your existing settings. Further advice on 3D Printing settings can be found at the bottom of the materials page.
It has a very high rate of crystallization allowing it to be annealed (reheated) after printing for much greater heat stability. It is suitable for hot water applications like coffee mugs or a trip through the dishwasher. How physically demanding your application is will determine the exact 'operating' temperature. For instance, it's possible a hot soup serving spoon might bend or flex undesirably during use.
You can anneal it by dunking it in boiling water for a minute or two or by placing it on a cookie sheet in your oven at around 200F - 230F for 10-30 minutes. Slight warping and shrinking of printed parts often occurs so there is some trial and error involved in producing the finished piece you want, this amount seems to be about the same or slightly less than other HTPLA on the market and is very dependent on part geometry and printing conditions. If you're unsure about where to start in your HTPLA journey, I'll confess I've just thrown annealed parts into the dishwasher and let them slowly anneal over time as they get used, though this would not be a suitable method for ensuring full crystallization before service in a demanding application.
Some people with all metal hotends have reported bizarre under extrusion with this PLA. The current theory has to do with how tight the hotend has been screwed together and that PLA left in the nozzle can crystalize at seams and cause jamming. I've attempted to replicate this issue a number of times without success so it's possible that it is due to a low frequency manufacturing variation.
Stock is Currently Being Rebuilt - to include all available colors and materials. You're welcome to contact me or give me a shout on twitter for what you want in stock.
I want you to notice a difference - using Mad Maker Filament. I want all the 3D Filament I make to pass on some added value to you. Whether it be the color and appearance of your prints, the performance of the material during printing and in use, or the cost value from leveraging efficient production, 3D Printed spools optimized for shipping, and the fact that your dollars aren't going to support a bloated company with high overhead.
Shipping - I hate throwing extra money at shipping so I'm using a light weight 3D Printed Spool optimized for carriers logistics to reduce the cost as much as possible. Take a look at where the economic pockets are for your order so we get as much value out of your package as possible.
Spool Design - The goal is an economical way for you to receive and use your filament that doesn't detract from your 3D Printing experience and if possible, enhances it. More information and the development status can be found here.
|Status||Out Diameter||Center Bore||Width|
|Current||6.00"||1.65"||2.85" per kg PLA|
|In-Progress||7.00"||2.05"||2.11" per kg PLA|
The Right Temperature and Speed - is critical for getting the best looking and performing parts. Best advice for all materials boils down to Low & Slow. More detail on this can be found on the Materials page.
Bulk, Wholesale & Custom Runs - are all available. I like to keep batch sizes divisible by 10kg (22lb). I think I price ideally for Schools, Print Farms and Businesses.
Large Format Spools - are being tested for weights up to 10kg. I'm hoping to release 5 lb and 10 lb options around the new year with larger to follow.
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